Where the tuning shop is and how to open it
The tuning shop sits right next to Tire Zone, tucked behind the suspension shop. Community videos describe three parking bays with a computer in front of them. Drive the car you want to tune into one of the bays, get out, and use the computer. If you cannot find it, open the map, head for Tire Zone, and walk around the back of the neighbouring building. The locations page shows how it fits with the rest of the map.
The computer has two tabs that matter: ECU and Gear Tuning. Both tabs show a live chart. The ECU chart plots horsepower and torque against engine speed, and the gearbox chart shows the speed range covered by each gear. There is also an import/export box for tune codes, which we cover below.
What each ECU setting does
The ECU tab, added in the August 30 update, has six sliders. Their effect differs from car to car and engine to engine, so treat the descriptions below as what to watch for, not fixed rules.
| Setting | What to watch on the chart | Practical starting point |
|---|---|---|
| Fuel Mix | Power climbs as you move right, then drops once you pass the sweet spot. | Sweep slowly and stop at the peak reading for that car. |
| Ignition Timing | Can raise or lower power depending on the engine. | Nudge in small steps and keep the change only if the curve improves. |
| Valve Timing | Adds a little horsepower and torque in many builds. | Try high values first, then back off if the low-RPM torque falls away. |
| Boost Target | Only matters with a turbo or supercharger fitted. | Most shared tunes run boost close to full. |
| Power Limit | Caps total output. | Leave it at 100% unless you are deliberately detuning. |
| Rev Limiter | Sets how far the engine revs before cutting. | Raise it until the horsepower line goes flat or starts to curve down, then step back slightly. |
The rev limiter is where most players go wrong. In the September tuning walkthrough the creator's power line kept rising up to about 7,600 RPM on a twin-charged V8 and flattened by about 7,800, so they settled at 7,600. The rule they used is simple and works for any car: it is fine if torque dips a little after its peak, but if both lines are falling, you have gone too far.
Gear tuning: top speed versus acceleration
Each gear has its own slider. Moving a gear toward the left lengthens it, which raises top speed but slows acceleration. Moving it toward the right shortens it, which improves acceleration but caps top speed. Push everything all the way left and the car struggles to pull the next gear and may never reach the theoretical top speed; push everything right and you hit the limiter early on the highway.
There is no single best tune because it depends on the job. A drag build wants short, close gears. A highway build wants longer upper gears. For general driving and showing off a flip, a balance works best: short first and second gears to launch, then progressively longer gears.
| Gear | Ratio shown on screen | Purpose |
|---|---|---|
| 1st | 5.10 | Launch |
| 2nd | 2.96 | Launch to mid-range |
| 3rd | 1.99 | Mid-range pull |
| 4th | 1.49 | Mid-range pull |
| 5th | 1.08 | Cruising |
| 6th | 0.81 | Highway |
| 7th | 0.63 | Highway |
| 8th | 0.49 | Top speed |
That example comes from an eight-speed setup. Cars with fewer gears show fewer sliders, so do not try to copy the table line by line. Copy the shape instead: big steps between the low gears and small steps at the top.
A repeatable tuning routine
- Write down or export the stock tune so you can always return to it.
- Set Power Limit to 100% and, if you have forced induction, raise Boost Target close to the top.
- Sweep Fuel Mix from left to right and stop where the power reading peaks.
- Adjust Ignition Timing and Valve Timing one at a time, keeping each change only if the chart improves.
- Raise the Rev Limiter until the horsepower line flattens, then step back slightly.
- Move to Gear Tuning and set first and second gear for launch, then lengthen the upper gears in small steps.
- Drive the same stretch of highway before and after and note the top speed you actually reach.
- Export the finished tune and keep the code with the car name.
Testing matters because the in-menu top-speed estimate is not trustworthy. In the September walkthrough the menu suggested about 415 km/h for a tuned muscle car, but the same car managed about 326 km/h stock and about 358 km/h tuned on the highway. That gap is the reason we recommend a highway run after every change.
Importing and exporting tune codes
The tuning computer can export your current settings as a code and import a code to load settings onto another car or build. Creators often paste their export codes in video descriptions. A shared code is a good starting point, but it was made for a specific car, engine and set of parts. After importing, check the ECU chart: if the curves look wrong for your engine, re-sweep Fuel Mix and the Rev Limiter.
Only paste tune codes into the in-game tuning box. A tune code never needs your Roblox password, and no site or video needs your account to give you one.
Common tuning mistakes
- Trusting the menu top speed. Always confirm on the highway.
- Maxing every gear to the left. The car bogs down and may never reach the speed the menu promises.
- Lowering Power Limit by accident. If a tuned car suddenly feels slow, check this slider first.
- Tuning a car you are about to sell. Tuning is for cars you keep. For flips, the selling guide explains what actually moves the offer.
- Copying a tune from a different engine. A V10 tune will not suit an inline-4.